Back on the wires in Addis

Thus far, it's been impossible for me to upload any posts in Ethiopia. So I've been deprived of the opportunity to rave about the food, the mountains, the churches, the history, the utter incomprehensibility, the unexpectedness of this country. I am, however, intact. A little afflicted by the dust, moderately overwhelmed by it all, but intact.

The Queen of Sheba hotel in Addis provides me with the opportunity not only to speedily get online and watch Z-grade television but to display fabulous Ethiopian hot water technology.


This was the closest I got to a hot shower in a couple of weeks. The chap at reception at the guesthouse in Bahir Dar insisted on turning the boiler on and off. There were wires, you see. Hearing crackles when you wash you hair is no fun.

Hang on, I'm forgetting something. It's Christmas Day! Merry Merry! Ethiopia is a deeply religious country, with Orthodox Christians and Muslims co-existing reasonably happily. It seems that it doesn't matter what faith you are, as long as you have a faith. I have been quizzed as to my religious beliefs as frequently as I have been interrogated on my marital status. Just as I've learnt to lie about my handsome husband, I've had to gild the lily as far as my godliness is concerned. The label atheist just doesn't cut the mustard and indeed provokes a wave of hostility. The few times I tried it, people fell deadly silent. I've been telling people I was baptised a Protestant (it's true) and averting my gaze. They think it's because I'm ashamed that I'm not a real Christian (ie Catholic or Orthodox) but obviously I'm afflicted with the bad conscience of one acting in bad faith. Ho hum. Or should I say, ho ho ho! I wish an abundance of festive merriment to the lot of you!

It's not actually Christmas Day in Addis - the Ethiopians skipped on the Gregorian calendar so Christmas doesn't fall until mid-January - so I'm basking in a tinsel free zone. In fact, the most festive occurrence of this so called festive day has been nattering with my family via the fastest internet connection I've yet encountered in Africa. Otherwise, I've self-administered a hearty dose of rotwein (really rot) and am looking forward to watching Dr Phil's Christmas special. Tomorrow I fly to meet a parade of familiars in Delhi! Hurrah! There is a strong possibility that I'll be catching another flight to verify the status of the rest of the antipodean familiars soon. Hurrah again!

Merry Christmas!